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One was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian spice mix podi – a rubble of fiery, roughly ground spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for nine minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the spice seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a sizable container with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the sauce elements in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, scattered with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.